French Drain Cost in Georgetown, TX
What a real french drain costs in Georgetown: per foot pricing, what a proper system includes, cheaper surface fixes to try first, and bids to walk away from.
By the Georgetown Foundation Guide editorial team · Updated July 15, 2026
$2,500 to $8,000
Typical residential systems; length and depth set the number.
French drains occupy a strange spot in the foundation world: cheap enough to be an impulse recommendation, expensive enough to sting, and built underground where you cannot inspect what you paid for. Prices make more sense once you know what a real system includes.
The local math
Published industry cost data for the Georgetown area puts typical residential french drain systems between $2,500 and $8,000 installed. Most quotes reduce to a per linear foot price, commonly $30 to $90 depending on depth, obstacles, and how the water leaves the property.
| System | Typical scope | Typical range |
|---|---|---|
| Short run along one wet wall | 30 to 50 feet, shallow | $1,500 to $3,500 |
| Standard side yard system | 50 to 80 feet with discharge line | $2,500 to $6,000 |
| Full problem side plus discharge | 80 to 120 feet, deeper trench | $4,500 to $8,000 |
| Add a sump pump where gravity fails | Basin, pump, electrical | $1,000 to $2,500 on top |
Depth is the quiet price driver. A shallow trench catching surface water digs fast. A drain set deep along a foundation, in clay, by hand or mini excavator, costs multiples of that, and rocky west side lots can add excavation labor that clay lots never see.
What a real french drain includes
The name gets applied to everything from proper engineered drainage to a gravel scar. A system worth paying for has: a trench cut with consistent fall (roughly an inch of drop every 10 feet) so water actually flows; filter fabric lining the trench and wrapping the rock completely, the detail that keeps clay fines from clogging the pipe; washed gravel, not fill dirt; perforated pipe, ideally rigid PVC, holes oriented correctly; and a discharge point that releases water somewhere harmless, whether daylight on a slope, a pop-up emitter, or a sump.
Skip the fabric and the local clay silts the system shut. That failure takes a few years, which is conveniently past most workmanship warranties. Ask every bidder to describe their fabric and rock spec; hesitation is your answer.
Cheaper fixes to price first
A french drain is the subsurface option, and plenty of Georgetown water problems are surface problems wearing a scary costume. Before accepting a $6,000 trench, price the drainage correction basics: downspout extensions that move roof water 6 to 10 feet from the slab (often a few hundred dollars), regrading soil so it slopes away from the house ($500 to $2,500 for typical touch ups), a surface swale, or channel drains across a driveway. Roof water is the usual culprit here, because our rain arrives in bursts that overwhelm short downspouts and pool against foundations.
The honest sequencing test: if water stands against your slab during a downpour but the yard drains within a day, start with surface fixes. If the soil stays saturated for days, water emerges from below, or a crawl space stays wet, subsurface drainage earns its price.
Drainage dollars vs pier dollars
Here is the framing that saves people real money. Wet clay swells and lifts; dry clay shrinks and drops. A few thousand dollars of water management often stops movement that would otherwise mature into a five figure pier job, and engineers routinely prescribe drainage before or alongside piers. If a foundation company proposes piers without saying a word about where your water goes, the plan is incomplete.
The reverse sales pitch also exists: a drain sold as a cure for a foundation that has already settled. Drainage stops causes. It does not lift concrete.
Red flags in the bids
Free drainage evaluations are standard and mostly honest, but remember who is measuring: a company that sells trenches will see trench shaped problems, just as a pier company sees pier shaped ones. When the recommendation is large, a neutral opinion from an independent engineer is cheap insurance. Other walk-away signals: no stated discharge plan (water moved 10 feet is not water managed), no mention of fabric, no utility locate before digging, per foot pricing that will not commit to a total, and the classic corrugated pipe laid in a bare trench and photographed before backfill.
Cost questions
A properly built system, with washed rock fully wrapped in filter fabric and a clean discharge point, commonly works for decades. Systems built without fabric can silt shut in a few years in clay soil, which is why the buried details matter more than the trench you can see.
It can stop the water side of the problem, and on lots where wet soil is doing the damage that is the fix. It will not lift a foundation that has already settled. Many jobs pair drainage with piers: drainage to stop the cause, piers to correct the elevation.
Small residential drains often proceed without one, but discharge rules still apply: you generally cannot pipe water onto a neighbor or directly into the street or storm system without meeting city requirements. A contractor who works here regularly should answer this in one sentence.
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