Nobody maintains a foundation with concrete. In Georgetown the maintenance tools are a hose, a rake, and a calendar, because the real opponent is uneven soil moisture: clay that bakes dry under one corner in August or stays swamped at another corner in May. The local year has a rhythm, storm bursts in spring, punishing heat in summer, recovery in fall, quiet drought risk in winter, and this checklist follows it season by season. Print it, stick it in the garage, and work it like the oil change schedule it basically is.
Spring: move the water
March through May brings the year's most violent rain, and the season's whole job is making sure none of it lingers against the slab.
Spring, March to May
- Clean gutters before storm season peaks, and again after the live oaks finish dropping leaves.
- Watch the first hard rain from the yard, and mark every spot where water sheets toward the house or ponds in beds.
- Regrade any bed that settled over winter so soil slopes away from the slab on every side.
- Reseat downspout extensions and splash blocks so discharge lands 3 to 5 feet out.
- Run each irrigation zone near the house and fix leaks, broken heads, and spray hitting the foundation.
- Trim shrubs back far enough to see the slab edge all the way around.
- Photograph your reference cracks in April while soil moisture is high; this is the baseline summer gets judged against.
- Position soaker hoses now, 12 to 18 inches from the slab edge, so the summer program starts on schedule.
Summer: run the watering program
June through September is when clay shrinks and foundations drop. The watering guide covers the full method; the discipline below is the short version.
Summer, June to September
- Run soaker hoses on a steady schedule, aiming for even moisture on all sides, never soggy ground.
- Increase frequency during 100 degree streaks, and pause after real rain instead of watering through it.
- Every two weeks, check for soil pulling back from the slab edge, and close any opening gap with longer run times.
- Give south and west exposures extra attention; they bake first and crack first.
- Deep water large trees out at the drip line so roots have less reason to hunt moisture under the slab.
- Log every door that starts sticking in July and August, with dates.
- Confirm current watering rules before setting schedules, and ask how foundation soaker hoses are treated under restrictions.
- Resist catch up flooding after a vacation; sudden saturation moves clay as surely as drought does.
Fall: repair the summer's damage
October and November are for undoing what the heat did and getting water handling ready before winter rain. It is also the easiest season to line up good help, before spring fills every contractor's calendar.
Fall, October to November
- Clean gutters after the first big leaf drop, and check again once the pecans finish.
- Walk the perimeter during a fall rain and note anywhere water stands longer than a few hours.
- Taper the watering program down gradually as the heat breaks, rather than shutting it off overnight.
- Rebuild beds and low spots that eroded over summer so grade still sheds water away from the house.
- Reseat downspout extensions knocked loose during the dry months.
- Compare door behavior against your July notes; sticking that persists into cool wet weather deserves attention.
- Photograph the reference cracks again in November and file them beside the April set.
- Book any regrading or drainage work now, while the ground is workable and schedules are open.
Winter: hold the balance
December through February looks quiet, but winter droughts shrink clay too, and one burst pipe can soak a corner for weeks unnoticed. The work this season is mostly vigilance, and it takes minutes at a time.
Winter, December to February
- Keep watering through extended warm dry spells; winter drought moves foundations, just more slowly.
- Disconnect and drain soaker hoses ahead of hard freezes, then return them to service when the week warms.
- Insulate hose bibs and irrigation backflow equipment so a burst line cannot quietly soak one corner of the slab.
- After any hard freeze, check the water meter with everything off; movement can mean a leak feeding soil under the house.
- Watch beds during winter rain stretches and fix spots that hold water before spring storms arrive.
- Keep gutters clear; one ice storm can drop a season of limbs and leaves at once.
- Run a full interior door and crack log in January, when clay is usually at its wettest.
- Schedule an engineer evaluation now if fall never resolved a symptom, ahead of the spring rush.
What the routine is worth
Per published industry cost data, foundation piers run $350 to $600 each for pressed concrete and typical jobs need 8 to 15 of them. Against that, a year of hose discipline and gutter cleaning is close to free. When water problems outgrow rakes and extensions, purpose built drainage correction is the next step up, and it still costs a fraction of structural repair. Pair this routine with the quarterly walk around checklist and the house will tell you early about anything the maintenance cannot hold.
Georgetown Foundation Guide editorial team
Independent research for Georgetown homeowners. Cost figures come from published industry data and are estimates, not quotes. Updated July 15, 2026.